Don't miss all the great aftermarket Accessories for your Spyder - I will road test as much as I can - its a tough job but someone has to do it!
Back in 2008 I bought a rack for Givi panniers from Canada (it was the only option at the time) The airfreight ended up costing as much as the rack so I looked at other options and found that I could bring in 10 racks for $1,000 freight whereas one had cost me $460 freight. I no longer import racks as there are better and cheaper local sources now but I do bring in batches of other product where feasable, to save on freight costs.
I generally have stock here (Gold Coast) of handlebar risers , air filters, oil filter kits, Iridium spark plugs, HT plug lead sets, mirror extensions, Madstad adjustable windscreens , shortee antenas for RT's, highway foot peg kits for RS and RT, heavier sway bars, grip covers (Grip puppies) Spyderpops accessories, a comprehensive range of LED lighting for Spyders and much more. I have shipped parts to New Zealand, Malaysia, Singapore, UK, USA, Sweden and France so I can generally assist all Spyder owners where ever they are..
Considering a stiffer sway bar?.. Josh in Colorado USA says " I just wanted to thank you for the awesome customer service and the speed in which you shipped the sway bar for my Spyder. I just installed it and your right - it is the best thing I have done to it.
It's Amazing."
Spyder Royale Event 2012....
This will be held at the Novatel Twin Waters Resort, Sunshine Coast Queensaland on September 1st and 2nd 2012.
BRP say "We have also been working on accommodation (and availability for the region is still really good).
- the hotel and are putting together some accomodation packages for you which I hope to have shortly.
- There is also a great deal of alternative accommodation very close to the venue and I am in the process of making contact with some of these to see if we can get special deals for you. "
A couple of people have reported to me rough running issues after having spark plugs changed. Watching the US Forums it seems that the OEM carbon cables are extremely fragile and often fracture or arc after being disturbed - as happens when changing plugs.
Dale emailed me - "put the spyder in for its first service today everything was fine before it went to the shop when I got it back it was idleing rough and when you take off it is like it is missing ... took it back to shop they put it on computer and they say it all says it is fine .. " I suggested plug leads- he replied" Martin took the bike back and they removed spark plugs found nothing wrong with plugs then changed leads and bingo problem solved thank you for the information that you sent "
I am importing some better quality and much more durable spark plug wires, made using MSD Super Conductor OR Accel Race Wire and also NGK Iridium spark plugs. Iridium is a favorite among many big-name aftermarket manufacturers, exotic car OEMs and enthusiasts looking for an extra edge. The center electrode of an iridium plug tapers to a point as it nears its ground; the idea being that it focuses spark energy into a narrow, more intense arc, thus increasing combustion efficiency.
OEM ones are left in image and new "Race Wire" or "MSD" ones on the right.
Lead sets $70 inc GST includes dialectric grease for boots and heat paste for plugs.
NGK Iridium spark plugs $12 each inc GST (specify RS or RT)
In stock now.
Oil filters
Engine oil filter and seal kit (includes O-Ring and 2 copper washers) for the SM5 Spyder for $19.50 inc GST
Engine oil filter and seal kit (includes O-Ring and 2 copper washers) for the SE5 Spyder plus 1 Transmission Filter and O-Ring for $24.80
In stock ex Gold Coast
LED running lights
These running lights will fit all of the Can Am Spyder lineup. These unique flexible high intensity LED’s will sure get you noticed from a distance. Flexible LED strip uses special foam adhesive tape to mount. Waterproof and shock resistant. Each LED strip has a total of 18 super bright LED’s. Easy to install using OEM connectors. Kit comes with a pair of LED strip light’s, complete with color manual, OEM connectors, plastic primer and alcohol cleaning pad.
$65 a pair inc GST
Spyder with a different look.
New style screen on Madstad System.
Mark in Florida has produced a new screen style on his "infinately" adjustable and popular Madstad System. It is called Sport SD.
In the image to the right I have lightened up the background so it highlights the screen profile.
I don't tend to stock the heavily tinted ones as in the photo but I do stock a verylight grey tint in 24"
Looks great in my opinion. It is a little more tapered at the top than the older design and the bottom edge is not "scalloped" out as previously.
IMPORTANT -RT Recall. Canada only?? Or all RT's??
May be worth a check. Initially I heard that is its limited to Canadian units. However Chris in Austria tells me there were 3 accidents so far from this and one was in Finland - So this may apply to all RT's??
"On certain Can-Am Spyder RT Series roadsters, the pin securing the brake pedal connecting rod could disengage and fall off. This would result in a complete loss of braking ability without any prior warning. The loss of brake function, in conjunction with traffic and road conditions, and the driver’s reactions, could increase the risk of a crash causing property damage and/or personal injury. Correction: Dealers will replace the brake pedal connector rod pin". http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search/recalldetail.aspx?lang=eng&rn=2012126
Bombardier Recreational Products is issuing a recall campaign on 2010 Can-Am Spyder RT roadsters because of a risk of brake failure. According to documents released by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, a pin used to secure the brake pedal connecting rod may disengage and fall off, resulting in a total loss of brake function.
Forums - OK I give up ;-) .
For years I have resisted adding a forum to this web site as there are several good ones out there and it all takes time to create and to maintain. You will find seperate Australian Spyder forums attached to both Spyderlovers and Spydertalk forums as well as one at Ozspyderryders.com. Other US forums are Spydertalk and Can Am Spyderforums.com
Anyway a couple of people have asked recently so its there now. There is a "Forum" button on the menu or go here. It should all be running OK now but if you have anny difficulties please let me know- martin@spyderryders.net.au. Hope it helps people out with exchange of information.
Spyder sway bars but now Australian made!
As many of you may know we have been unable to get the very popular Evoluzione sway bars since the company stopped trading some months ago. Previous owners were very happy with the product - Mark in Melbourne commented "The sway bar is fitted. The initial feeling of it is much “tighter”. I pressed it fairly hard on the way into work today. On a sweeping right turn onto the freeway I was able to get the front wheels to slide ( see note below) without having the feeling that it was going to lift up, this was under fairly hard acceleration. I also tried it on a sharper but lower speed right turn with less acceleration, and found that when I got the inside wheel to lift, it felt more controlled and a matter of observation, not concern."
So I will now be stocking an Australian made sway bar in several versions (RS/GS to start with)
The 14mm is suited mostly to the relaxed rider that wants a bit more stability in the corners, but if you like to get in to the corners and show the guys on the 2wheelers what they are missing out on then I would suggest the 15mm
The 15mm is probably the best of both worlds as you can set it on the softer setting for cruising and general riding or in a couple minutes re-set it to the heavier setting to get in amongst the boys with their toys!
14mm good all round bar suited to the casual ryder
15mm light setting for touring and heavy setting for fast riding down the freeway or through the twisties
Altering suspension componants on any vehicle has to be approached in a serious manner and the sway bar is no different.
A quote from a US forum (thanks to "Bone Crusher") seems to sum it up well.
" What you're looking for is the best of both worlds. Improved resistance to centrifugal force with manageable edge characterists. Of course 'Manageable' depends on your skill level and other things like quality of shocks, road and tire conditions.
With the stock sway bar you lose control over the front end first (raising the inside tire) while the rear tire still has plenty of traction. Because this happens long before any traction issues are encountered it gives the novice rider plenty of warning and plenty of time to react (also, the Nanny (electronic stability program) kicks in sooner which also gives a greater degree of manageablity).
A stiffer sway bar converts that inside tire lift energy to increased front wheel traction. Both front tires stay in contact with the pavment longer, the center of gravity is kept lower, the Nanny is happier, stability is increased and your ability to go around curves is greatly enhanced. But you can only go so far with this. You do not want to reach the limits of the system suddenly. You want some early signs and enough wiggle room to make corrections. "
As always be aware of your own skill level and do not push things to the limit. Safety first.
Which handlebar riser set?
I have had a number of people trying to decide which riser set they need. The 4" Ezy Risers or the 3" Billet Street Magic risers. It all depends on whether you already have the 1" genuine "BRP riser fitted and many , having bought their Spyders second hand, don't know this.
My Spyder had the 1" BRP riser fitted. I measured from the flat Perspex face of the instruments to the top of the ignition switch cover. It is 190mmm as below. If yours measures the same then you do have the BRP 1" riser and cable length will limit you to the 3" billet risers. If it is less (around 25mm less) then you can use the 4" Ezy Risers which also allow more rotation and are cheaper.
Larger brake pedal
Not happy with the small standard brake pedal?
This larger one has special stamped out steel enforced and welded bracket. Uses the same mounting hole for a simple direct replacement for both the RS and RT models.
$39.50 inc GST for brake pedal and $41.50 inc GST for the park brake pedal
Cup holders
These are perfect to mount on the RS handlebars or the RT's rear grab bar. If you can even attach it to a RAM ball mount. Adjustable clamp allows for versatile mounting, simply twist to adjust and lock in place.
$15 inc GST
Rear Wheel Removal
Thankfully this is not a frequent task, but this wheel is singularly the hardest wheel removal / replacement job I have had to do in 40 years, but I have a tip to make it easier.
Wheel removal requires a large shifter or a 36 mm socket and a tool to hold the other side of the axle.
The axle nut is on the right side, it is secured by a cotter pin under the pull off plactic cover.
Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the 2, 13 mm headed bolts (could be 12 mm, whatever) that hold the rear brake caliper to the steel plate and wiggle the caliper from the disk.
Make up an appropriately sized broomstick which is less than axle diameter You will use that to drive the axle out to the left. Make sure it is small enough to slide easily where the axle normally goes, but not so small as to go through the inner diameter of the hollow axle.
Support the trike under the frame (I use a trolley jack) and lift the wheel just clear of the ground, just a smidgen clear.
Drive the axle out with the broomstick.
Lift the trike a bit more, and withdraw the broom stick.
Lift the trike as high as you can to allow you to roll the wheel out. This is fairly easy to do in that the rubber belt just slips off. What that the belt wheel's cush drive rubbers don't push the carrier too far away, or that the rubbers drop out.
The steel carrier plate for the disk brake is held in place at two points. One point is by the axle, the other is a metal knob on the inside of the swing arm. Once the wheel is out, it may just clatter to the ground.
Do what you gotta do with the wheel / tyre and then replace the cush rubbers (best done with the wheel resting on its side, disc side down, and replace the sprocket carrier. It will not seat fully home until it is re-installed and the axle is torqued up.
Replace the wheel under the chassis and hook up the drive belt around the sprocket.
Try to hang the disc brake carrier on its knob so it will be in position when you try to line up the wheel.
Unless you are really, really strong and really, really accurate, it is easier to lower the trike to align the axle holes, rather than lift the wheel into place. There is very little clearance mainly because the cush drive stands proud. You have to slide the carrier plate into position. By the way, by this time the alloy alignment blocks in each swing arm will probably have fallen out, They are mirror image 2 piece blocks. The adjustment bolts are at the bottom. They do not need to be messed about with, just assemble them and slide them back.
Use your broomstick from the right to align that block, the brake carrier plate, through the wheel, through the cush drive (there is a spacer internally here, only goes in one way, and may not have fallen out anyway. Then through the left side alloy block.
If all goes well, all you then have to do is replace the axle.
The design is flawed in that it uses quite prominent external threads, so perfect alignment to allow the axle to be pushed back in without galling the threads would be really good. BPR, rather than using internal threads, or at least stepped down threads, denies that chance. So you have to do the best you can. You can trust a big hammer and steel threads vs. alloy locating blocks, but it is an awful design requiring some strength and luck.
When the axle is through, replace the washer, torque up the nut, replace the cotter pin and cover.
Re-attach the caliper to the carrier, after fiddling the pads around the disk. Don't forget, once assembled, to pump up the brake as you will have expanded the pads to fit around the disk.
Thanks to Mark in Melbourne.
Front Suspension Lubrication
The front suspension has 2 "A" arms on each side. The pivots on the frame each have a grease nipple (zerk fitting), 8 in all, 4 per side - 2 upper, 2 lower.
You can barely get a flexible grease gun into the two lower ones and the front (forward) upper fitting. It is plain impossible to get to the rear fitting due to internal cover / plate ducting.
Solution: buy 6 mm 45 degree angle grease nipples from your local autoparts (cost less than $4.00 per pair). While you are at it, get 4 to replace the upper front one as well while you are at it.
You will need some 6 mm washers to allow you to adjust the way the fitting "points" when screwed in.
Access to the fittings is poor, very poor. Best access is to remove the front bodywork, but even then, it is horrible. Be prepared to drop (and lose) at least 1 fitting.
Once fitted, access problem is gone.
Why doesn't the factory fit these in the first place?????
Thanks to Mark in Melbourne.
Iridium spark plugs heat ranges.
The GS/RS normally uses the NGK heat range 9 (the coldest) but some dealers in the US are using the warmer 8's where some instances have occured of plugs oiling up - generally the RS/GS can use 8's or 9's.
The original spec for the RT’s called for the colder 9’s (just like in the RS, GS, RSS) but BRP had a number of issues with the 2010 RT’s running 9’s. They did some field testing and found that the RT (including the 2010’s) did much better with 8’s. So only use 8's if you have an RT....I keep both ranges here. Thanks to Ron for the info.
New Spyder decals and emblems
Either as a "3D" sticker or as a solid metal emblem with 3m adhesive back ( for flat surfaces)
Sticker $6.00 inc GST
Solid metal $11.00 inc GST
The solid metal emblem looks very smart on the SPY105 3D stainless steel grill as below (photo does not do it justice)
Looking for company on a trip from Tassy?
28/01/2012 Hi Martin,
I am seriously looking at buying a new Spyder RT with trailer in order to escape the cold of tasmania during winter and spend that time site seeing the more scenic top end areas of Australia. Such a trip is lacking in a big way if there isn't a group to share the experience. How hard do you think it would be to get a like minded group together. As mentioned before I live in Tasmania and I'm 63. I have done around 200,000km on Harleys, but no longer feel bullet proof, hence the planned switch to a Spyder. I know this just calls for an opinion but maybe this idea of a 6 month road trip has some appeal to the members. I would also be interested in talking with anyone thinking about touring another country with their Spyder.
These new grills take only minutes to install using small screws. They are a 3D form like no others which add style and class like they should have come from the factory. Designed to work with the SPY111 block off plate.
$137 inc GST per set of two.
Where "The Dark Knight" would like to dock his Ipad? See Bat Cycle
Ezy Risers fitted.
"Hey Martin This is what my risers look like fitted. I am a short person and this gives me a great possie very close to the RT. The improvement in handling is great look forward to dealing with you again Cheers Angie."
"Hi Martin, I installed the 4 1/2" Ezy Risers to my RSS and what a difference it has made to comfort and handling. It is almost like a new bike. I wish I had done it months ago. The difference is staggering Regards, Kevin in Victoria "
Roger writes"I fitted the Ezy Risers to my GS last weekend & the difference is amazing. For the first time I can sit with my back relaxed & the pressure off my wrists. I haven't done a long ride yet but I can't wait to find out how much better it is."
Ever see a Spyder do this before?!!!!
"Cooler running" for RS/GS....
I often have people ask me for the "cooler running kit" for the RS/GS. Just to explain there are 3 different Spyderpops "heat deflectors" for the GS/RS and they all perform quite different tasks.
The Missing Air Dam- ensures that air that mormally scoots around the radiator actually gets forced through it improving cooling - ($29 inc GST.)
The Air Management Kit – ensures all the hot air is deflected out the right side and away from your right foot (eliminating the hot right foot issue). It also includes a scoop ( "E Scoop") to get more fresh cool air in. ($65 inc GST)
The Missing Heat Shield. This shield is coated with a high temperature reflective surface and serves two purposes, shield your foot from the exhaust pipe within inches of your foot and route “HOT” radiator and engine exhaust air past your foot and down to the ground. A must have when applying the brake pedal repeatedly for traffic stops.($57 inc GST)
Most people fit at least the missing air dam and air management kit. Some like the missing heat shield as well.
"Cooler running" for RT
The RT radiator block -Keep the heat off your right foot by installing this insulated shield. Made from black polycarbonate and laminated with heat shielding on the inside. $33.00 inc GST
The RT Catalytic convertor heat sheild– Stop the unwanted heat radiating off the catalytic converter on both sides. The converter is exposed below the roadster and radiates extreme heat directly to both feet when going at a slower speed, especially uncomfortable for passengers. Available in both semi-automatic and standard shift versions. Simple installation that takes only minutes! Black polycarbonate with the heat shielding on the back side $53.75 inc GST
Wayne from Melbourne writes....
hi i am writing to you just to tell you your site is a very good source to products and problems..
.i am a t8 complete paraplegic and have a 2011 spyder rss se5 i used the isci handbrake assembley and some lighting foot boards that mount in orignal footpeg mounts with a couple of straps to hold my feet on as i am paralised from chest down
i am limited to travel a tank of petrol at a time as i cant get of to fill as i dont like traveling with my wheelchair but am looking at getting a corbin seat with flap i just fill up by a 20l jerry can at home after a ride but these are a fun bike and now im not limited to looking out a window in a car well done to can-am.
now love hitting the streets of melbourne amazing the looks you get and everyone wanting to talk to you .I like looking at your site for hints and tips good work thanks
RT owners watch out for this one too!
The windshield of the RTs are held by three points. Two points are pivot points & the third, which is in the center of the shield, is the dog-boned shaped metal adjustment mechanism that actually goes up & down with the press of your button on the RECC. Its that metal, dog-boned shaped mechanism that is failing, usually with a noticable crack half way thru, before it actually gives, and cracks all the way through. Just keep an eye on yours. If it breaks, a hose-clamp can offer a temporary fix.
OEM - High resistance Carbon Core reduces spark energy at the spark plug and tends to break down over time causing misfires and backfiring. Manipulating these wires (as when you change a spark plug) can cause unseen damage and problems. Custom - Low resistance, Spiral Wound bi-metallic wire core provides a continual, hard wire electrical path delivering more energy to the spark plug ~ Metal wire does not break down like the carbon core. Handling is not destructive.
Spark Plug Boot
OEM - Standard Automotive Rubber provides minimal resistance against arching. Can deteriorate in high heat conditions increasing chance of arching as the boot ages. Handling can be destructive - Short length makes it hard to grip for installation/removal as it is recessed into the Spark Plug hole. Custom - High Quality Silicone provides maximum protection against arching. Silicone's resistance to high heat environments helps these boots last a long time - Extended Length brings the top of the boot above the the Spark Plug hole making it easy to install/remove. Handling is not destructive.
Coil Boot
OEM - Automotive Rubber Custom - 45 deg. High Quality Silicone. 45 degree angle helps it to lay up to the frame rail. (Ok, admittidely the coil boot is not that big a deal, the stock rubber boot is probably all that is needed at this end of the wire. Still, this is a high quality race boot and a nice improvement at the Coil end).
Noise (RFI & EMI Interferance)
OEM - Good suppression of both noise sources, can deteriorate as carbon core breaks down. Custom - Excellent suppression of both noise sources, will not deteriorate as long as wires are servicable.
New stronger RS highway peg brackets in stock.
I have been importing a few highway peg bracket sets but because they are so heavy the air freight has meant they were quite expensive. Also they could not support a lot of weight.
I now stock some that are bit lighter and much stronger. These brackets bolt on to your motor mount bolts and provide a footpeg mount point approximately 12 inches forward, and 4 inches outboard of the stock footpeg location. These are designed in 3D CAD, laser cut, CNC bent, welded, and then powder coated black. $238 inc GST
They have a half inch (12mm) mounting hole for footpegs of your choice that are readily available locally or I can assist with those too for $60 a set including GST - see image to right.
Stretch out in comfort with the MadStad Foot Rests for the Can-Am Spyder RT.
They are very solid, made from 1/8” thick stainless steel and bolted into the framework of your Spyder. Two hidden supports (also 1/8” thick stainless) run down to the steel frame so that you are not just attached to plastic. No modification or drilling is necessary and they can be removed to return the bike to stock configuration.
These footrests are not coated; they are polished stainless steel with black grip stripes. Also available in black powdercoat.
Complete set $310 inc GST
Steve in Mackay writes- "thanks for all the bits for our RTS, all fitted and working. I when for a ride today to check them out and all are OK. The high way pegs are really good for my riding position, very close to my Fatboy ( I sold it to buy the Spyder ), I have a bad back and after 150ks it was fine.
The lights are great, just makes it look different to the run of the mill.(The wife likes it too,Bonus)
The block off for the radiator is good, with my foot on the high way peg,cool as. (very hot and humid today, I could not see any change in temp.)."
* Note -On the right side the rider's leg will be directly behind the radiator vent, so the Spyderpops RT radiator block ($33.00) is a "must" and will resolve the heat issue.
Feedback on Spyder handling from Mark.
I have been riding the Spyder every day, and as reported earlier I have installed the Fournales units as well as your sway bar. I have a fair bit of experience now in working out what works. The end result is that you need to have soft springing at the front to have compliance; but unless you have progressive springs; the harshness you need to control weight transfer will cause you to bounce otherwise. The Fournales gives you real progression, and this means you can load up the outside wheel much more than with standard springs, and you don't help lift the inside wheel.
I am no longer having to use so much body English to maintain a good pace. Body English still has its place, and you still have to cope with the g-forces; but it can go a lot better than the standard set up.
This brings me to the problems I would like to address.
I want softer brake pads. I miss the "bite" and immediate "hit the wall" effect of a good motorcycle set up. Softer pads may well help here, without a lot of messing around. Do you know if there are after market pads or, if not, if anyone has a worn out set of pads to allow me to make a pattern and reline them? I still think I could get a lot more power with a hand lever perhaps with a separate independent hydraulic circuit to a slave cylinder pushing on the foot lever - sort of hydraulic / mechancial boost to the braking. Has anyone worked out something like that?
Second issue is clutch plates. The clutch drags, huge clunk going into 1st. The clutch may slip, but then again, it may be the crap traction, but good wearing, rear tyre. My guess it is the tyre. If I am wrong, do you know of any other clutch plates or modification? The dry clutch on my BMW twin has spoilt me. Have you heard of any alternative tyres (my concern is the big one at the back). It sure wears well, but it just don't stick. I had a set of tyres on one of my cars that did not grip at all in the wet. These standard tyre is just the same.
Apart from these niggles, the Spyder is fine, and very enjoyable (if a bit heavy on fuel). Mark
UPDATE 18/12/11 - Since my last message to you I have taken some active steps to address the issues.
The first one is that I have been advised that the Kenda tyres are a standard car size; but the size itself is not a usual one. According to a local retailer (Donnellens), Hankook produces the same sizes. Insofar as this information is valid for Spyders, the Kenda tyre is long lasting and is well known for limited grip. The Hankook tyre offers much more grip, but less wear. The Hankook rear is about $225, and if you were to change the fronts, they are $99 each; and are of a different tread pattern to the rear.
I have also purchased and fitted the ICIS hydraulic braking system. This was purchased over the 'Net from the manufacturer in Montgomery Alabama. They shipped it via USPS and it took just on 15 days to arrive, undamaged, and complete. Fitting (if you don't much around) is simple, and 2 to 3 hours for a shade-tree mechanic. The biggest problem is getting your fingers into the confined spaces. The full fitting instructions, including colour photographs, are available from ICIS's web-site. The pictures and text are all accurate.
In operation, the Spyder is much more like a motorcycle, and you get the illusion of having a front and rear brake. If you use the front brake alone, the freeplay in the rear brake give you a soft lever. If you apply them at the same time (and with the back it need only be a soft application) you get a full lever at the front and you can get the ABS to come on, and make the rear wheel light enough that it dances through weight transfer onto the front. All of the pieces are well made, and are accurate in fitting and robust.
Fitting does not void my insurance policy and since the Spyder is now 2 years old, warranty is not an issue; however I doubt if it would affect the warranty as there is now interference with the standard brake system in any event.
Apart from having the faster application of stronger braking force on the road, the hand lever is also useful when you are pushing the Spyder around.
There were 3 things that I identified when I first road a Spyder 3 or 4 years ago. Terrible horn. Heat being dumped onto my right leg. No front brake lever. All of these things are now fixed (and a few more besides). It makes for a more enjoyable ride if your background has been motorcycles.
Something to watch
A client recently fitting an Evoluzione RT sway bar came back to me with some issues relating the the ends of the link rods (that go from the lower suspension arm to the ends of the sway bar) The ends are spherical bearings held in plastic mouldings.
Doing some research on the US forums (there are a lot more Spyders there so more faults are reported) I discovered a couple of RT owners (and one RS owner) who had found these rod ends had cracked - even though they still had their standard OEM sway bar on.
No reports of any actually failing yet and Evoluzione have not struck the problem but it seems like its something that just affects a few RT's (mainly).
UPDATE 19/12/11 This issue seems to me to relate to ride height. That is people with their suspension set softer may tend to experience an issue with the links coming into contact with the frame but those with stiffer suspension and therefore a greater ride height, do not as the links hang more vertically. If the links make contact with the frame when cornering a "click" sound can usually be heard.
Limp mode after oil change.
Be aware that in some instances after you do an oil change the Spyder will go into "limp home mode". Aparently it is a reasonably common occurance in the US where there are way more Spyders than in Oz. The easy fix is just to ride around the block. Usually reving the motor over 3,000 will clear it and all is fine.
One unfortunate new owner in the US trailered the Spyder back to the dealer (aparently a new and inexperienced one) where they blamed it on a "non genuine" oil filter and presented them with a huge bill.
New! -Replacement weather strip for RS and RT.
This weatherstrip replaces the original weatherstrip on the trunk with a sponge type bulb which will keep it's shape over time unlike the original. I will keep a couple here.
SPY112 for RS -$25 inc GST
SPY116 for RT - $25 inc GST
Embarrassing admission.
For all if the "missing belt guards" I have sent out around Australia , I have just never got round to putting one on my own Spyder! I dont ride on the dirt and don't do a lot of K's so I should be OK to rely on BRP's standard beltguard ? WRONG!!
I just noticed an neat bite taken out of every tooth on my belt. Luckily it has not damaged the strands of the belt, just taken a small "bite" out of every tooth. Upon investigation I found a small piece of bitumen (luckily not a chunk of gravel) stuck into the rear sprocket. When I took the bits off to fit a belt guard ( I know but better late than never) a small handfull of rocks fell on the driveway!
I have a new belt on its way from the US ($300 is better than $750 from BRP locally) but I probably wont change it yet as the damage was minimal. But I was very lucky! The Spyderpops "missing belt guard" is now installed.
New! - RT "Vader" LED kit - Vader headlight kit includes 2 pcs of slim design LED’s, connecting block, waterproof blue LED switch, alcohol pad and full color instructions ready for install $70 inc GST
Information for the Spyder that will help people with paraplegia become mobile- from Greg Hayden
RT catalytic convertor heat shield - Stop the unwanted heat radiating off the catalytic converter on both sides.
The converter is exposed below the roadster and radiates extreme heat directly to both feet when going at a slower speed, especially uncomfortable for passengers.
In seperate versions for the auto and manual models
$55.00 inc GST
RT radiator block. - Keep the heat off your right foot by installing this insulated shield.
Made from black polycarbonate and laminated with heat shielding on the inside.
$33.00 inc GST
Electronic tint visors - anti fog 06/04/11
I am looking at bringing in some electronic visors. It applies inside your existing visor and the change to tint is instant (touch of a button.) Up to 60 hours use on a charge - recharges from USB. Easy to fit - Fail safe (reverts to clear when flat)
"Experience instantaneous rider-controlled visor tint insert. Same technology that the US military fighter pilots used in their helmets are now ready to hit the road! A small electronics module mounts to the side of your face shield and with the quick touch of a button your visor will instantly change tint. It is also equipped with superior anti-fog coating that is further enhanced by the thermal qualities of the double lens."
Price should be around $129 inc GST - please let me know if you are interested.
Spyder Eyz LED Rings and Fenderz 29/03/11
In the pictures below you will see the Spyder Eyz LED headlight rings and Fenderz LED strips as well as the LED replacements for the fender tip lights fitted to my Spyder. I have put the Spyder Eyz on my high beams only (my headlights are not switched on in these photos) They are rings with self adhesive that mount around either the high or low beams and they really make the Spyder stand out from the front- I am trying to eliminate the "sorry but I did not see you" scenario.
I must admit after fitting the Fenderz (they sit flush into the grooves in the mud guards) my initial reaction was that I felt like a "Christmas tree" but I had a long ride in rain and low visibility on the highway recently and I was very glad to have them on! They also make the Spyder's width more obvious from behind. As you can see the LED replacements for the fender tip lights are noticeably brighter too!
I keep the Fenderz here in white/red and amber/red , and the tip LED's in white and amber. I think amber would suit the yellow Spyders. See accessories.
Tried to replace a tail light globe yet??
These are almost impossible to get to, especially if you have a BRP sports rack,and a failure can cause "limp home" mode. A real nuisance on the road!
While I expect people considering a Spyder will test ride both models I thought the info below was interesting. Based on a rider 6ft tall with a 32" inseam.
"Fenderz" (right) and LED replacement tip lights . See accessories
Riding Style.
I know the Spyder requires a "different" riding style but I have to admit I have not tried this one - see photo on right.
Exhaust gaskets blown?
It seems a comon issue is the exhaust "Y" pipe gaskets falling apart. Symtoms are an increased exhaust sound (obviously) and a lot more heat coming from the area. I understand that an "identical" but more duable gasket is avaiable from Honda.The Honda GL1800 gaskets are part # 18392-MAM-000.
NEW PRODUCTS ....Have you noticed the new Audi and Mercedes cars with the LED rings around the headlights? I now have in stock something similar for the Spyder (see images below) Also from the same company an electric trunk release that works from a button on the console- no more stopping the motor to open the trunk and a great little trunk light. See my accesssory page .
Electric trunk release kit
New "missing" accessories for the GS/RS - the things that should have been there from new.- a belt guard to protect that expensive belt from stones, the "Missing air dam" to help your Spyder run cooler and the new "Air management system" to eliminate the "hot right foot" - see the products page.
Missing heat shield
Air management stystem
Missing air dam
New belt in Oz - $700 odd!!!
Belt guard with new weld nuts
Round Australia Blog
Hi Martin, I start my trip around OZ on the Sypder on the 13th feb. My blog is at www.bikingaroundoz.blogspot.com, feel free to share that with the other Spyder riders if you wish
Regards
Steve
Check your trailer!!
About a month ago I had the misfortune to have what could have been a serious (I mean serious) accident on the road from Wisemans Ferry to Mangrove Mountain. I was followed by a friend all the way, and at Spencer, where we stopped for coffee Len made a comment on how well the trailer I was towing was travelling. Not ten minutes later, as I rounded a series of bends, at relatively low speeds, I had my accident. It happened so quickly that I don't even recall what happened, and how it happened.
I found myself lying on my back with the Spyder on top of me - upside down, the trailer still hitched to the towbar, and lying on its side, with all the contents spilt on the roadway. I was helped to my feet, and it took a little while to comprehend what had happened. Somehow, the Spyder was thrown onto its right side, then bounced back to its left side, then rolled over.
Both mudguards had scratches on it, the windscreen was smashed, and the tacho/speedo cluster had fallen out. The left hand mirror was snapped off, and the rear left footrest bracket had snapped. The Spyder was pulled back onto its wheels, and once the speedo cluster was reinserted, it was able to be started, and eventually ridden back to Sydney. The trailer however, had to be put onto a towtruck as the towbar was damaged. For some days I was in a lot of pain, and after going to hospital, was told I had a fractured pelvis with subcutaceous haematosis (bleeding under the skin).
When at last I was able to bend, and lift, I did an autopsy on the trailer. I removed the body of the trailer from the chassis to confirm what I had suspected - at some time (the trailer was about 10 years old) I had ridden over a pothole / rock / bump which had been so severe that the floor of the trailer was torn. The chassis frame directly underneath had metal fatigue and cracks in the welding. So every time I went over another bump, not only was the damage spreading, but the mounting bolts were tearing through, until there would have been only a couple of bolts on one side holding the trailer onto the chassis.
That one right hand bend was enough to lift the body off the chassis, pass the centre of gravity (point of no return), cause the trailer to then roll, which then pulled the Spyder over. The shape of the Spyder, and the topbox saved me. This could have very easily have happened whilst towing with my previous bike - a BMW. I shudder to think what would have happened if it had been anything other than a Spyder. I walked away, and was able to ride home.
What I learned from this, I have passed on to others - we do checks on our mounts, but how often do we check our trailers? Three of my friends who also have trailer, have since, checked their trailers and found that similar failings were found. Trailer floors have carpets, gear, that can hide the true condition of the trailer.
Gideon Schuman
Watch your belt
Ken (Cookie) writes - haven’t been out for about 6 weeks as I spent a 10 day spell in hospital, and still waiting to get the staples out. Anyway that didn’t stop me from doing some work on my bike this week.
While I was in hospital I decided I’ll go around aussie beginning next February with some friends. So I ordered some bits for the bike – the Evo swaybar and an ISCI hand brake. Had them here in 3 days! Forgot about customs duty and taxes, so I got caught for more than I was expecting!
The swaybar is a little different – few more bends than the one you have, and the hand brake looks the part. Haven’t been for a ride yet – staples out of my knee tomorrow, so I’ll be tempted for a ride.
About 3000k’s ago I managed to put a hole in my drive belt. A blue metal stone was pushed nearly through it! I managed to get it out (with hammer & punch) and don’t know how long it will last, or if the belt tension has changed. I haven’t been nursing it to see if it fails, but it hasn’t so far. I think that’s because it wasn’t holed at the edge, it should be ok for a while. (see pics above) They want $758.80 for a belt here, but I’m going to get one from the states at $300 US. Didn’t damage any sprockets luckily.
Keeping the bugs off.
If you follow the US forums (Spyderlovers and Spydertalk) you will find that no other subject seems to bring so many different opinions than that windscreens.
In my opinion we are all different sizes and have different riding positions so for a windscreen to be "all things to all people" it really needs to be completely adjustable in angle and height. T he CHAD screen from Industries 7 in Canada performs very well but many people do not like the appearance and fewer still like the $600 plus price!
Mark from Madstad Engineering in the US has just released a very reaonably priced Spyder windscreen system that is adjustable to the extreme . This idea is not new as Madstad have sold thousands of their adjustable bracket sets for the Suzuki V-Strom over the past few years and people swear by them.
Negotiations with Mark at Madstad mean we should be able have a fully adjustable product that is, in my opinion, more aesthetically pleasing (smaller) while still performing well, for hundreds of dollars less than the price of previous offerings !- read more.
I have this fitted to my Spyder now and it performs brilliantly. Visor up at 100 kmph, air is smooth with virtually no turbulence!
Spyder Ryders "Down Under" 
Considering a stiffer sway bar?
